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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.